![]() ![]() After I upgraded the battery it was considerably louder and clearer. Stock battery can’t keep up with 1000 watts. It’s about 5-609 dollars for a factory replacement anything aftermarket is junk. ![]() Due to the variable voltage alternator if you danage it it’s also much more expensive that traditional one. Your alternator is rated at 14.4 volts, so the resulting calculation for current (amps) would be I 1000/14.4. The ctr only charges what it need so during the summer when air is hotter batteries have a higher resting voltage and you can see as low as 12.5 volts so even if your amplifier is rated at 1800 rms it’s most likely at 14 volts not 12.5.that will only net 1600 watts and that’s still only if the batteries can keep up. If you have a mono block and a 4-channel amplifier that each are rated at and outputting 500-watts RMS power, you have a total of 1000-watts. You can’t add an alternator either cause the ecu controls the alternator. If you plan running those subs to the capability you’ll need a 2000 rms amp or bigger. Also you really should run a secondary ground off the primary battery cause the whole system is only grounded to the battery by one 4 gauge wire. TwoXS d4700 battery’s will proved 130 amp hours. To wire up your amplifiers and entire system, use good quality 100% OFC power wire (NOT CCA!) and make good, solid connections, plus use proper fusing.Ĭheck all of your connections with a DMM for resistance/voltage drop at your amplifier's power terminals as compared to at the (+) and (-) battery posts.1800 watts is 150 amps most wires are at least 10 feet so that’s a minimum of 2 gauge to compensate for extra draw. Note that you'll also need a household plug/power cord to connect to it, as well as some 10-12 AWG wire and battery/alligator clamps as well. You can buy an inexpensive 12v/30a power supply for this. If you listen to the system with the engine off for any length of time, connect a battery charger to the battery that is capable of at least 10 amps of charging current while listening to your system. Try not to run your battery down! Doing this repeatedly, as well as letting it get below 11 volts will kill your battery FAST and will tend to shorten the life of your alternator. So as long as your 110-amp alternator is working properly and your battery is healthy, you should be fine with your existing alternator.ĭo know that an aging or bad battery will put quite a strain on your alternator and the electrical system in general, including your stereo system. This indicates that I have PLENTY of headroom available from these particular amplifiers and my electrical system (alternator & battery) for dynamic transient peaks, and that you really don't need very much power at all, especially for your midrange and tweeters. However, even when I'm "jamming" on the system with bass-heavy music, my average amperage draw on the electrical system is just under 13 amps! And that includes the current that's consumed by the head unit and DSP as well. The Total output potential for all of the amplifiers is 2,160 Watts. The amplifiers are rated at 4 x 190w 4 ohms on the front stage, and 2 x 700w 2 ohms for the subwoofers. Regarding the TYPICAL current draw from your vehicle's electrical system when playing a very standard car audio system, I recently posted the following in another thread:Īs an example, in one of my cars I have a typical 2-way active front stage component speaker setup, plus Two 15" subwoofers. ![]() I own and use a simple battery/alternator tester that works perfect for this. Make sure that they input the correct CCA # from your battery's label, otherwise the results will not be correct. The battery's CCA spec should be listed on the battery.Īsk the tech that is testing your battery to show you the actual display on the battery tester that shows your battery's voltage and CCA #s. See if the voltage is at least 12.6v at rest (preferably closer to 13v) and that its available CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) aren't too far off from its CCA rating when new. However, if your battery is over 4 years old, have it load tested for free at Autozone or any other autoparts store. You will be fine with your existing 110-amp alternator! Many of the major car audio manufacturers also have Online Power Calculators, such as Rockford-Fosgate, JL Audio, and Kicker (under the Tech Support tab).Ī great web site for all types of car audio electronics information isĪlso check out the Dean and Fernando's Car Stereo Clips YouTube channel. Google search "Ohm's Law" to learn how to calculate Voltage/Current/Ohm load. ![]()
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